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                  您現在所在位置:首頁 > 專欄 > 黃土之上
                  拾發菜
                  李進祥 2017-01-04 02:29

                    苦寒的地方,往往能生出一些奇異的物兒來。譬如蟲草、雪蓮,雪域高原上才能生長。黃土高原上干旱,草木稀少,也生長一些特別的東西,發菜就是其中之一。發菜,通過名字就可以想出樣子來,色黑而細長,如人的頭發。發菜能吃,卻不是菜,而是菌,和蟲草差不多。

                    三十多年前,發菜要比今天的蟲草更出名,也更值錢。一斤三十多塊錢,在當時就是天價了,能換一百多斤麥子呢。所以,我們西海固那地方的人,一到冬天,就到甘肅、內蒙古等地抓發菜。發菜生地卑賤,就在沙漠和貧瘠土壤中,而且要到冬天,草木完全枯萎了,才能找到。大人們坐上蹦蹦車出遠門,找發菜多的地方去抓。我們小孩子,只能在附近的山上去拾。村子周圍的山上有發菜,但很稀少,沒法用耙子去抓,只能用手撿拾。

                    放了寒假,就約上幾個伙伴進山拾發菜。發菜性脆,風一吹,太陽一照,就容易斷,拾不起來,必須趕清早那點潮氣。進山還要走一段路,天麻麻亮就得起身。出門的時候,背個小挎包。也沒有專門的挎包,就是上學用的書包,母親用碎布頭縫的,一個方袋子,兩根長系子。倒出書本,裝上一個饃饃和一瓶水,那是一天的口糧。

                    太陽剛冒頭,就到山上了。我們分散開來,每人找一塊地方,佝下腰,低下頭,在山皮子上、蓑草縫里找發菜。哪里有,哪里多,誰也不知道,全憑運氣。大多數山坡上都有點,只是被風吹,被羊踩的,斷成小截了,不好拾。背風的,陡峭的地方,有時會發現盤成一片一片的,那就是交了好運了。好運并不多,主要還是靠眼尖、手快。眼睛要一直盯著地上,探照燈一樣一寸寸往過掃。看到發菜了,趕緊拾起來,放在另一只手心里握住。再找,再拾,再握,捏了一把,就裝進挎包里。拾上一陣,就不行了。眼睛盯酸了,冷風吹得流眼淚。手也凍拙了,抓不住細細的發菜。只能揉揉眼睛,給手上哈幾口熱氣,接著找,接著拾。時間長了,又不行了,整個手都凍木了,只能捅到袖筒里,或者干脆伸進咯吱窩里暖一暖。實在太冷了,就點貓兒頭刺烤一陣。貓兒頭刺點著了,周圍的伙伴們都跑過來烤,都凍得不行了。邊烤邊笑鬧,烤暖了,又分頭去拾發菜。中午的時候,才又聚在一起,喝水吃饃饃。饃饃凍硬了,水瓶子也凍瓷實了,只能干啃。肚子里填上點,曬一陣暖暖,下午再拾。下午有時候起風,山上風大,小刀一樣割著手腳。

                    十幾天下來,手腳上就有了凍瘡,開了口子。手腳上的口子,我們那里叫裂子。治裂子有辦法,拿一塊羊油,在煤油燈上烤化了,把油脂滴在裂子上,兩三次,就把裂子燙死了。只是油脂燙的時候,鉆心的疼。自己下不去手,一般都是父母給燙。我們疼得呲牙,父母也跟著疼,可是有啥辦法呢。長了凍瘡,更麻煩,治不好,還留根,第二年冬天又會復發。那時候,好像沒有專門治凍瘡的藥,還是用偏方。偏方就是以毒攻毒,拿一塊冰來,放到手腳凍瘡上,坐在那里,等著冰塊消化。冰塊放上,看著沒有用油脂燙兇險,但放時間長了,冰的寒氣鉆進骨頭里,比油燙還疼。忍不住把冰塊甩掉,父母怕半途而廢,過來又放上了,一直到冰塊融化完了為止。

                    這樣治了凍瘡,燙了裂子,又堅持著去拾發菜。每天拾幾錢、一兩的,一個寒假三十多天,眼尖手快的能拾一斤多,差點的也能拾七八兩。父母拿到集市上去,能賣二三十塊錢,一學期的書費學費也就差不多了。父母抓來的發菜買了,一家人要過日子呢。父母出遠門抓發菜,肯定比我們更辛苦,我們當時不知道。

                    我們拾的發菜,大人們抓的發菜,叫販子們收了去,據說最終都到了廣州、香港,那里的人們吃發菜。我們想不通,那里的人多有錢,一斤三十塊錢的發菜都吃得起。我們也想不通,發菜有啥好吃的,吃肉多香,一斤才一塊錢。后來才知道,發菜諧音“發財”,他們吃發菜,就是圖個吉利,想著快點發財。

                    剛開放的時候,窮日子過怕了,都想著發財,發菜就貴;現在呢,日子過好了,都想著要保健,所以蟲草又貴了。東西的貴賤,與人們的需求有關,這是常理,大家都知道。抓發菜、挖蟲草破壞環境,大家也知道。可每一棵蟲草,每一根發菜背后的人,卻很少有人知道。



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