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                  您現在所在位置:首頁 > 專欄 > 歲月軼事
                  來北京瞧橋
                  牛頌 2017-02-24 02:39

                  北京是一座因水而建、因水而興的城市。當年游牧民族由草原來,見到水系豐沛、水大皆稱之為“海”,所以北京有很多“海”。彼時舟船可駛入護城河,漕運可達外城虎坊橋、內城到什剎海,北京因此建了很多的橋。現在有些橋早已湮沒無聞,有的則歷經磨難奇跡般保存下來,承載著動人的傳說。

                  對古都北京,人們對橋的關注,遠不如作為城市肌理存在的胡同。上世紀80年代初北京還有3000多條胡同,到90年代只剩下1000多條。2000年9月同時有360條胡同在拆,當時我在市民宗委負責宗教歷史建筑保護工作。這些胡同中有很多古廟院落,十分珍貴。我整天騎著自行車串胡同,與宗教房產管理辦公室的工作人員一處一處登記宗教建筑房產,一共登記了200多處。但有時這一周登記的,到第二個星期再經過時已突然消失,都不知道是誰拆的,常讓我感覺像親人突然失蹤又聽到死訊一般悲傷無語。

                  有一次聽說開發商要強拆位于海淀區的明代碧霞元君殿,我連夜帶人趕往,生怕這宏偉的大殿也會一夜間消失。我知道這是一個大樓盤的面積,能賺大錢,但宗教歷史建筑的價值是錢算不出來的。站在明代建筑的圍墻前,強烈的燈光下,一輛鏟車直抵到我胸前,而我則如慷慨就義般地與其對峙,儼然好萊塢大片中的“超級英雄”。當時我心想:豁出去了,看誰先崩潰。好在“慘劇”沒有發生。幾百年幾千年,皇宮在皇帝太監沒了、帝制沒了,物是人非;可如今寺廟在主持仍在、宗教還在,毛主席都說就是到了共產主義也還有宗教。所以說宗教古建筑是一種活態的存在,人是物不非,但拆一處就成了人是物非。當年梁思成、林徽因夫婦勸北京市領導不要動內城的建筑,說800年的東西拆了重建那就是個假古董。倒回去700年,1267年北京也大拆大建,修到元大都南城墻時,因與一座雙塔慶壽寺沖突,元世祖忽必烈下旨:西南轉角城墻南移,“遠三十步環而筑之”,硬是把雙塔保下來。所以先有雙塔寺后有長安街,后來成為“燕京十景”中的長安分塔。倒回去70年新中國總理也保護了團城,決定中南海圍墻南移,馬路稍一緩彎,文物古跡就保存到今天了……我慷慨激昂、滔滔不絕、巧舌如簧,縱橫百年帝王、千年建城史,終于把老板派來勸降的美女公關說服了。不打不相識,后來都成了朋友才知,當時老板拍案大怒,令美女公關道:“不就一個局長嘛,去把他給我拿下!”當然最后老板沒拆廟,美女公關被我“策反”,反過來說服老板花了幾千萬元把這廟給修繕了。此后這個老板的生意越做越大,口號十分豪邁:“讓我們造城!”

                  今天看來,北京的“橋”似乎也沒有減少。有位新疆的同志常帶團來北京公干,我接待他,他很幽默地對我說:“北京對口支援和田,這個很好嘛!北京嘛,就是偏了點。”然后用自學的北京話問:“這次來北京瞧些啥呢?”我說:“別的都瞧了,這回就瞧瞧橋吧!”北京的古跡哪個與你擦肩而過都奔800年去,再往后可數到3000年,歷史長的除了古寺就數橋了。隨著城市現代化建設的拆遷改造,很多老古董不再現身,如今你就是走在它身上也感覺不到了。但橋不太一樣。牌樓拆了現在就成大馬路一平地了;寺塔拆了如前面提到的雙塔寺,現在就成電報大樓了……可橋拆了,它還叫“橋”,只是換成了鋼筋水泥,換成了立交橋,可它名份還在,今天還在叫著,還寫在路牌上地圖上。橋上面跑著現代、奔馳、奧迪、凱迪拉克,橋底下埋著神奇、凄美、古老的故事……這就是北京的橋文化。

                  今天北京北二、三環線上的橋和其它地方保存的橋,有200多座。歷史上北京城區分布大小河流30多條、大小湖泊幾十處,這上面的橋就有100多座,如今大都埋在地下了。比如地安門東邊有個東不壓橋胡同,是明代建城墻沒有壓住橋而得名。還有一座西壓橋,是為解決皇城外東西交通問題,在一條短短的灑道上修建的,上世紀修建平安大街時挖出過舊橋基。西郊頤和園內的十七孔橋、西堤六橋和柳橋、練橋、鏡橋、玉帶橋、幽風橋、界湖橋就更不用說了,它們與遠處玉泉山兩組景色交相輝映,宛如美人遠去留下的音容笑貌,古典優雅,引人遐想。今天北京城內在原處還保留了一些古橋,如德勝橋、高粱橋、地安門橋、銀錠橋。什剎海與北海之間的閘橋,當然還有著名的盧溝橋、東八里橋等等,無不飽含歷史滄桑。當你漫步北京城,留心一下眼前和腳下的橋,都會有許多新鮮奇特的感受。

                  橋,是都市的鄉愁,是城市面孔記憶中的秋波啊。我想用老北京的鄉音囑咐朋友一句:“您要是有空兒,來北京瞧橋。”


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