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                  您現在所在位置:首頁 > 專欄 > 西藏之東
                  家住“王府”——在昌都系列
                  2016-09-05 06:01 作者:白瑪娜珍 來源:《中國民族》雜志

                    陽光像白色飛羽,在貢覺縣莫洛鎮莫洛村無聲地飄著,令村莊沉浸在久遠的夢中。我們走過田野,那所一千多年前達律王的白色宮殿,仿佛在時光逆流中迎面而來。

                    據民間流傳,貢覺地區著名的達律王,曾在吐蕃時期被贊普封王,并在如今的莫洛建起王府。直到元朝時期,達律王族才演變為部落首領。相傳,八思巴大師到康區時還曾專程拜訪達律王。為迎接八思巴的到來,王府特修建了一座經殿。八思巴與達律部落首領成為知己,在經殿繪制精美的壁畫以作留念,并舉行了盛大的法事活動。臨走時,八思巴特意將自己的妹妹阿乃卓瑪許配給了達律王。清朝后期,達律王族的后代逐漸成為貢覺的阿卡定本。“定”,藏語意為小部落或村寨,“本”意為官。“定本”合起來,就是小部落頭人的意思。

                    我們來到莫洛村時,王府雖在,但達律王的后裔早已成為普通農民了。歷史風云變幻之中,他們還住在千年“王府”中。這真可謂奇跡!仔細打量眼前的“宮殿”。還好,還沒有完全坍塌。外墻還依稀可見千年風雨的滄桑……此時,“王府”古老的大門開了,一線光透出來。只見一位中年婦女,五官端正,氣質不凡——達律王族第十六代后裔格列巴松、貢布才加、次仁旺久的妻子松拉。

                    穿過地面凹凸不平、堆滿干草的牲口棚,“王府”內曾經的石階出現在眼前。松拉拖著長袍,舉起蠟燭,在搖曳的燭光中,小心地拾階而上。“據說過去進到王府之前,先要在這里煨桑。”果然有個方形的煨桑石爐像是一口窗戶,嵌在石土墻中,已被桑煙熏得烏黑了。

                    低頭進門,眼前突然一亮。原來二層是個大客廳,采光很好,王族后裔們活生生地就在里面!男主人次仁旺久身材比較矮小,在用餐;女兒十六七歲,笑容燦爛,見有陌生人進來,很是頑皮地躲在柱子后面左右看我們。“其他人去挖蟲草了。”松拉熱情地給我們斟茶時,次仁旺久并不言語,只是對我們笑笑。

                    “我們有三個孩子。“松拉望一眼次仁旺久,回頭對我們說:”大女兒次仁拉姆,現在西藏大學讀英語專業,兒子其洛次仁在家務農,小女兒索蘭拉真在昌都讀中學。”松拉邊說邊指指躲在柱子后面笑的女孩。

                    “達律王族現今唯一的兒子沒去上學?”我們吃了一驚。

                    松拉笑了:“什么王族呀,只剩一座快要坍塌的破房子了。”她撫摸著女兒索蘭拉真的頭發:“孩子的父親是普通農民,家里就這一個兒子,就沒讓他上學了。我們這里的習俗是要留個兒子在家里。” 

                    “曾經為八思巴大師修建的佛堂還沒有塌吧?”我們小心地問。

                    “在,只是快要塌了,我帶你們去看看。”見我們對達律王族的歷史似乎知道一二,松拉顯得很高興,進屋拿來古舊的鑰匙,又找來一把手電筒。這時,松拉的丈夫次仁旺久仍然只是望著我們,友好地笑笑。

                    “王府”的房子結構很是復雜,佛堂需要下到半二層。打開門,就見幾根陳舊的梁柱支撐著空空蕩蕩的昏暗屋子,屋頂有幾處已見坍塌跡象,而八思巴曾經繪制的壁畫早已完全脫落,不留痕跡了。“佛堂里的佛像和文物,被達律家族的一位喇嘛全部收藏起來了,這里只留下這個法臺。”松拉說。空空的佛堂里,還燃著一盞酥油燈。

                    在底層另一個黑漆漆的矮屋內,松拉的手電照亮了屋子最深處的角落,那里立放著一個完整的馬頭。松拉說:“傳說那是達律王曾經的坐騎的馬頭。”

                    達律王的坐騎據說是白色的,像旋風一般迅速和敏捷。

                    這時,聽到樓上有人在喊我們。原來,不言不語的次仁旺久在我們走后,叫人去找來了在附近山上挖蟲草的兒子其洛次仁。

                    看上去十七八歲的其洛次仁目光炯炯,可謂英俊少年。跟少年一起來的還有位喇嘛,據說是孩子們的舅舅。于是,我們站在千年達律“王府”昔日的客廳里,開始了一場關于少年其洛次仁是否應該復學的討論。

                    “主要是父親不讓我讀書,說家里只有我一個男孩子,要承擔家庭的擔子。我自己很想讀書。”其洛次仁說話時,松拉慈愛地望著兒子,點頭表示同意。她還取出在西藏大學讀書的女兒的照片,給我們看。

                    照片里的女孩格外靚麗,真不敢相信是從這所偏遠、殘破的房屋里走出去的。

                    討論沒有結果,松拉又帶我們看達律 “王府”曾經的廚房。

                    廚房頂上的層層油煙,是一千多年以來留下的。松拉說時,其洛次仁跟進來,指著廚房里的那些黑陶罐說:“那些也是祖輩們用過的。”

                    聽到其洛次仁說到自己的祖輩,我不由回頭再仔細端詳他。少年的確有一種特殊的氣質,真該去讀書啊!


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